Hotel restaurants are notoriously tricky, especially if you have a Michelin star. You have to balance room service, relaxed bar food that has a global appeal while having local touched and finally you have the classic Michelin audience. Many have tried and failing in this difficult task and even more have failed in creating something unique.
Restaurant Marchal is placed in what is without a doubt the most luxurious and beautiful hotel in Denmark which is D’Angleterre. A blessing and possibly also a curse. The hotel is stunning on the outside and walking in its not uncommon to pass a parked Ferrari, Bentley or similar just in case you forgot where you were. Inside you are met by a giant and beautiful flower arrangement before being seated at your table. A table covered in a white table cloth, naturally.
Most people dining at Marchal goes for the a la carte, men we chose a 4 course menu at the humble price of 1000kr ($140) and topped it off with a few snacks.
Marchal is as classic French as you can find it in Denmark. The snacks would therefore contain some of the traditional French luxurious ingredients such as oyster, caviar, lobster and foie gras. Worth highlighting was the tartlet with lobster and yuzu which was a refreshing and delicious bite with great texture. Putting small twist on classics would also be the case of the foie gras which was topped with a punchy red pepper reduction. An innovative way to put contrast on the classic foie gras.
For the first starter it would however be as classic as it gets. Potato foam with truffle and more truffle. Small pieces of barely cooked potato for textural contrast was found on the bottom. Otherwise as classic as it was delicious.
Next dish was probably the most innovative and delicious. Pieces of squid was covered in a smoky buttery sauce with a bit of both hazelnuts and apple for both texture and to keep it refreshing. A generous serving of caviar topped an incredible dish. A dish where a lot of different flavor components came together to create a stand out flavor. I started saying innovative but truth be told it but it is delicious.
I would continue with a delicious piece of turbot with celeriac with blue mussel and champagne sauce. Once again a dish all about uncomplicated flavor
The last main was the only dish that I thought didn’t quite hit the mark. Danish venison served with lots of foie gras and a “stuffing”. I don’t remember what exactly was in the stuffing but for me its strong flavor of iron overpowered the rest of the flavors which was a shame.
Order envy is a horrible thing which I suffered from this day as my wife got a perfect piece of poulet with a vin jaun sauce and truffles. Again the classics are classic for a reason.
We would finish the way every meal should – with all the desserts. Citrus panna cotta with ginger, apple with honey hibiscus and bergamot and chocolate with a mezcal caramel. All delicious desserts but the refreshing and beautiful apple dessert was a clear favorite. Especially after a heavy meal.
As I started saying hotel restaurants are notoriously tricky. It is less than 6 months ago where the young and talented Alexander Baert took over the responsibility in the kitchen and he is off to a very promising start. He has made the menu his own while staying true to the DNA of Marchal. It is still very much classic French but it is never boring and it is always very delicious which I think is exactly what the place needs. It also seems that he is bringing a fresh breath of air and ambitions including longer tasting menus without the food in no way being small tweezer food.
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