The story of Bruno Verjus is familiar by now for everybody: a food journalist turned celebrated restaurateur, with critical acclaim following him like a shadow. I first dined at his restaurant in March 2023, shortly before it soared into the top 10 of the World’s 50 Best list. That initial visit left a lasting impression—the kind of immediate, unexpected affection you might feel for a place where everything, from the atmosphere to the food, feels just right. The restaurant’s deeply personal style drew me in, while the food captivated me, dish after dish. After such an experience, returning with higher expectations was inevitable.
As before, the meal began with Colors of the Day, a deceptively simple yet exquisite salad of raw vegetables, accented with a pure and bottarga. Its presentation may appear unassuming, but each bite unfolds layers of intricate flavors, a delicate balancing act where every ingredient serves a higher purpose. The dish is a study in contrasts—precise yet poetic, an ode to the beauty of restraint. A skill that only the absolute best chefs master.
Paired with a sweet sake, three seafood snacks followed, each revealing different dimensions of the sea. There was a tart of sweet shrimp; a creation named liquid sushi; and finally, a lightly poached oyster. These snacks were more than appetizers—they were expressions, each capturing a different mood: sweet, briny, and rich.
The next dish was the biggest surprise of the evening: a remarkable combination of crab, squash, finger lime, and curry sauce. At first glance, it seemed uncomplicated and humble, but beneath the surface lay a world of depth. Bruno’s genius lies in his ability to coax out surprising and complex flavors from just a few carefully chosen ingredients with a big impact.
By this point, I was head over heels in love, and the next course only deepened that feeling. A humble dish composed of fewer than five elements—eggplant, artichoke, mussels, and yellow plum—came together in a small masterpiece. The eggplant lent a deep umami, the artichoke provided texture, the mussels whispered of the sea, and the plum added a touch of sweetness. It was a demonstration of how simplicity, when in the right hands, can be transformed into something profound.
Another classic from Bruno’s repertoire followed: lobster gently poached in clarified butter, served with a nettle purée for color, capers for depth, and a tomato for sweetness. Paired with an exquisite still wine from Champagne, the dish was so heavenly that I found myself wishing the meal could linger on indefinitely.
Next came a pairing that seemed almost too simple to work—soup and crème, a rich carrot purée against a bitter, herbal “juice”. Together, they created a harmonious contrast, as comforting as it was refined.
All too soon, we approached the final stages of this exceptional meal with two main courses. The first was a crispy fried red mullet, accompanied by a bouillabaisse-inspired sauce enriched with clam hearts and a luxurious Noilly Prat reduction. It was a lovely dish, though it didn’t quite achieve the same magic as the earlier courses.
The last main was crispy sweetbreads with a rich lobster sauce and a few delicate mushrooms. While it followed Bruno’s signature approach of balancing bold oceanic flavors with light, earthy vegetables, it didn’t resonate as deeply for me this time.
Dessert, however, brought the meal back to an unforgettable peak. The famed chocolate tart with caviar arrived, an exquisite study in contrasts—simple in appearance, but layered with subtle surprises, including capers and pistachios that enhanced the dish’s interplay of salty and sweet. It was sophisticated yet understated, a dessert that effortlessly captured world-class quality.
We concluded with a few madeleines, served alongside olive oil—a final, unexpected touch that left a lingering note of surprise.
Some restaurants make you fall in love at first sight, and Table did just that for me. The character of the place, the flavors, and the warm presence of Agnès Morandi, the charming and knowledgeable sommelier, won me over entirely. What was true on my first visit remained true this time, but I found my appreciation deepening, as if with each visit I uncovered another layer of Bruno’s artistry.
As a returning guest, I could immerse myself in the details I had missed before. Bruno’s talent lies in his ability to build flavors with very few elements, each one meticulously chosen to contribute to a complex and surprising profile. His cooking style is undeniably unique; though his chocolate tart has inspired many imitators, few can replicate the magic of his touch. With the popularity of Instagram chefs are so easily inspired by each other that many start to look a like. It is therefore difficult to find restaurants that are truely unique but Table is just that.
The service here mirrors the philosophy of the food—personal, unpretentious, and genuine. Agnès’s wine selections were inspired, reflecting a thoughtful mix of familiar labels and smaller, lesser-known producers. I found myself so happy by her choices that I promptly purchased three of the wines I had enjoyed that day just 10 minutes after leaving the restaurant.
At present, Table by Bruno Verjus holds the number three spot on the World’s 50 Best list—a ranking that feels entirely deserved. It is not the most technically elaborate, nor does it boast the grandest dining room or the most intricate presentations. But it speaks to the heart and soul, and in my eyes, that is the highest praise any restaurant can earn.
Practical information
Location: Paris
Head chef. Bruno Versjus
Menu: 10 course tasting menu
Website: www.table.paris.com
No Comments