I recently had the absolute pleasure of dining at Jan, the brainchild of former Atelier head chef, Jan Hartvig, who’s already there earned an impressive three Michelin stars. After years of success at Atelier, Jan decided to open his own restaurant in 2022, and I think it’s safe to say the results speak for themselves. Not only did he secure another trio of Michelin stars within months but he topped the OADs list of best new restaurants in 2023. Two achievements that I can imagine gives a greater joy knowing it’s in his own name must be a thrill that’s hard to top. Since then, Jan has been the talk of the town—and it’s easy to see why.
Tucked away in a peaceful, almost unassuming residential neighborhood in Munich, you might easily walk past Jan without realizing what awaits inside. But the quiet exterior only heightens the sense of discovery. Once you step through the doors, you’re immediately immersed in a space defined by understated elegance. The dining room is inspired by Bauhaus architecture, with clean lines and a minimalist design, accented by original art that whispers refinement rather than shouting it. It’s a calm space that puts the food front and center—just as it should.
And the food? Well, that’s where the subtlety ends.
As soon as the first dish arrived, I knew I was in for something special. The menu is rooted in German tradition, but Jan doesn’t stop there. His travels have inspired subtle nods to flavors from around the world, particularly Asia, and the result is a thrilling story of Germany as well as Jan. The first bites—a trio of small snacks—would set the scene for the rest of the meal and leave me begging for more.
Imagine a crisp cracker topped with tangy gherkins and fiery horseradish. The snap of the cracker followed by the zing of the horseradish was the perfect way to wake up my palate. Next came a delicate crustade filled with creamy chicken salad, bursting with fragrant curry spices—a nod to a German classic from the ’80s. It was retro, but in the best way, like a favorite childhood dish elevated to perfection. Finally, a little obazda—rich and smooth—rounded off the trio, and it was as comforting as it was delicious.
Then came the soup. A smoky, earthy broth made with eel and root vegetables, topped with soft dumplings and delicate flour balls. With each spoonful, I was transported back to my grandmother’s kitchen for a special occasion of her incredible homemade soup. It was the kind of dish that wraps itself around you, as familiar as an old friend but with a finesse that took it to another level.
The Arctic char that followed was one of those dishes that stays with you. Lightly cooked to perfection, it was served with a fermented beurre blanc that added a tangy, umami hit. I could have eaten it every day and never grown tired of it—the flavors were so well-balanced.
As the meal progressed, each dish seemed to outdo the last. One of the standouts for me was Jan’s pâté en croûte—a labor of love that clearly brought him immense pride. I remember watching him, a wide smile on his face, as he wandered the dining room showing of the grand pate. His joy was infectious, and the dish itself was equally joyful. Velvety foie gras, truffle, and pork wrapped in a delicate pastry.
The mushrooms, another of Jan’s loves, were there too, served raw and sliced over tender trout with a herb-packed sauce that sang with flavor. It’s such a strange thing why white mushrooms are so overlooked in the kitchen as they raw have such a delicate flavor.
And then came the heavier courses—because Jan doesn’t do light meals. First, a pan-fried quail, golden and crispy, paired with a succulent piece of oxtail. The richness of the dish was intensified by a luscious sauce vin jaune, tying everything together in a mouthwatering embrace.
Next, the dish that perfectly embodied Jan’s global inspiration: sweetbreads with a Hong Kong-inspired XO sauce. Each bite was a symphony of flavors—sweet, salty, rich—brought to life by a zingy green pepper sauce and the crunch of crispy buckwheat. It was a masterclass in balancing flavor and texture.
The goulash that followed was pure comfort. Made with veal cheeks, caramelized cabbage, and a subtle hint of anchovies, it was the kind of dish that warms you from the inside out, each bite familiar and yet deeply refined. I hadn’t had goulash in years, but this was one to remember.
We ended the savory section with a final flourish: venison, served with foie gras and a deeply satisfying dark beer sauce. Every element was rich and indulgent, the perfect culmination of the meal.
Desserts were just as unforgettable. The first was a cheese course—a local Grana Padano, served with crisp chicken skin, bitter greens, and the most wonderfully fragrant fig leaf oil. It was a surprising, playful dish that added a real twist to the traditional cheese course. Next came a pear sorbet paired with peanut toffee, rose hips, and raisins—a delightful mix of textures and flavors. Finally, we finished with a dessert that took me right back to my childhood: a yogurt ice cream with wild blueberries and beetroot. The flavors reminded me of Christmas desserts, but refined and elevated in a way that brought new life to those memories.
When I talk to people about dining experiences, there’s one thing I always say—flavor comes first. A restaurant can have the most beautiful decor, the finest local ingredients, or the most elaborate presentation, but if the flavors aren’t there, it all feels hollow. At Jan, however, the flavors were extraordinary—authentic, delicious, and crafted with true skill. It was therefore a friendly and needed reminder what great restaurants are about – flavor and personal service.
There’s no doubt in my mind that this restaurant deserves its three Michelin stars, and I can’t wait to go back.
Practical information
Location: Munich, Germany
Head Chef: Jan Hartvig
Menu: 15 courses $330
Website: Menu | Jan Hartwig | Restaurant JAN
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