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Le du – my personal rediscovery of Thai food

Like many other countries, up untill recent years, finedining in Thailand was based on both European products, flavors and traditions. Chef Tom (ThiTid Tassankajohn) was one of the pioneers that changed that. His first restaurant Le Du is therefore an obvious destination in Bangkok. 

The evening would start with a presentation of the key ingredients of the evenings dinner. I was pleased about the quantity of vegetables and especially the look of them. All familiar and fresh but they did not look the same as when I find them in a Danish supermarket. 

We would begin with a round of snacks as usual. The first a crunchy tart with mushroom, a bit of curry and kafir lime. A nice amount of acidity from the first bite. Another tart this time a reinterpretation of instant noodle soup and the last snack was a very delicious pork dumpling packed with flavor. 

The next dish would be the biggest surprise of the evening. Pieces of raw cobija (a white fish) was served together with a coconut vinegar sorbet. For me these were amazing exotic flavors that reminded me a little of a ceviche, but in a completely new setting. It was absolutely delicious.

From refreshing and acidity to sour in the form of a sour curry with bananaprawn and beetroot. The sauce was naturally served cold which gave nice balance to the earthy beetroot. 

The next dish would be all about texture. Soft squid served in its ink met a crunchy rice cracker.

 

As an extra dish we would have the signature river prawn. It was served with crunchy black rice. I know its a controversial opinion but for me the rice were really the star of the dish. So full of flavor and the texture was absolutely perfect.

The last savory dish would be wagyu ribeye served with a bit of watermelon and naturally chili. Some toasted couscous together with the spicy curry provided a great contrast. I am definitely not used to ribeye being served in a spicy context  which was both a big surprise and delight. I usually say that fat and heat should be served in equally portions so naturally the two go very well together.

Our final dish would be toasted coconut betal leaf. I usually think that coconut is too sweet in dessert but here it felt refreshing and balanced. It was naturally still sweet as it should be which made it a perfect finish.

In reality this was my first experience with Thai finedining and I was very pleasantly surprised. The flavors felt both familiar while new and exciting at the same time. Something that doesn’t happen a lot these days. I think because Thai food has spread the world and so has a lot of their ingredients but naturally the quality of fresh kafir lime, coconut and all the spices that makes the curry are of a completely different quality than I am use $$ to. To me that made all the difference. I usually say that there are some ingredients and dishes that I only love when you eat them in certain places. Coconut is now one of those for me. That should only be had when you can get it fresh like in Thailand. 

With the quality of ingredients and a chef that understands and appreciates the product the result is a great place which is exactly what Le Du is.

Practicalities

Location: Bangkok, Thailand

Head chef: Chef Ton

Menu: 6 course tasting menu – $125

Website: Le Du 

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