Restaurant Txispa opened in 2023, just 200 meters from Etxebarri, where Tetsuro Maeda worked for ten years—a move that sparked plenty of debate. I don’t intend to add to that discussion here. Instead, I want to share my experience at Txispa as a restaurant.
The restaurant is set in a 400-year-old farmhouse overlooking the stunning Axpe Valley. If you’re lucky enough to arrive first, you can take in the view with a glass of champagne before the meal begins. Service starts promptly at 13:30, with all diners eating at the same time.
Tetsuro is a passionate storyteller, and the meal begins in the kitchen, where the first rounds of snacks are presented by him personally. This immersive start gives guests deeper insight into the cooking process and introduces Tetsuro himself—an important touch, as the meal quickly reveals just how personal his cuisine is. The kitchen, too, has an impressive view—this time of their garden, which plays a central role in the menu.
The first snack always sets the tone, and the melody Tetsuro plays is one of reverence for product, layered with Japanese flavors and traditions. This opening note came in the form of a grilled leek with ponzu—simple yet precise, a statement of intent. Next, a fusion of Japan and Spain: a croquette inspired by a classic Osaka street food dish, filled with small squid. Smoky, rich, and deeply satisfying.
Sushi is sacred in Japan, so I have no idea what a traditionalist would say about the next dish—but I absolutely loved it. Lightly seared chutoro (the semi-fatty cut of tuna belly) was placed on a puffed rice cracker, finished with a touch of red pepper to bring Spain into the bite. It was an inspired and delicious interpretation—boldly innovative yet respectful of both traditions.
We then moved to the dining room for our first plated dish. The space, once a barn, is impressive. Though it has undergone extensive restoration, the charm of the old structure remains.
Before us were six small bites—pickled vegetables, fresh seafood, and, my personal favorite, grilled eel. This dish showcased Tetsuro’s commitment to hyper-local sourcing while staying true to his Japanese heritage. For example, instead of importing soy sauce, they make their own. But since soybeans don’t grow in the Basque Country, a creative substitute was required.
A chef can never escape their past—nor should they. Instead, they should embrace it and make it their own. This was evident in the chickpea tofu with smoked caviar, a clear nod to the smoked caviar at Etxebarri. But Tetsuro’s version was distinctly his. The chickpea tofu added depth, and the caviar, smoked over seaweed, introduced another dimension of flavor. This dish, to me, encapsulated who he is as a chef.
Next, we returned to Japan with a dish called Tawana: fermented cabbage wrapped around razor clams, paired with mustard seeds and a miso made from green beans. It was wholly original and packed with exceptional flavors.
No menu is without its weaker moments, and for me, that was the tongue marinated in koji, served with a yuzu and chorizo sauce. The sauce was lovely, but I’ve never been a fan of tongue’s texture. A matter of personal preference rather than execution.
The next dish, however, was among my favorites of the evening. Lightly pickled daikon, cooked in lamb fat and topped with truffles. After a series of rich protein courses, this was a refreshing interlude—though still kissed by the grill, adding a subtle smokiness.
Palamós shrimp is a staple in many Basque and Spanish restaurants, and their quality is so high that most chefs serve them unadorned. Txispa doesn’t alter the product but rather the technique: grilling them head-down so that the juices from the head infuse the body. The result? A deeply rich, intense flavor. Whether this approach is for you is a matter of taste, but I personally loved it.
Next, a dish of duck with soba and salsify chips. A nice dish, but for me, it lacked the spark of the previous courses.
One of my favorite ingredients in Japan is kinmedai (golden eye snapper). This was the first time I’d had it outside Japan, and it was just as exceptional—perhaps even better. The skin was unbelievably crisp, while the fish itself remained juicy and flavorful. Served with a simple, refreshing piece of young cabbage, it was an absolutely outstanding dish.
Being in the Basque Country, the main course could only be txuleta (steak). As I mentioned earlier, Tetsuro is a showman, so we were invited back into the kitchen to watch him cook it. The beef that day came from a cow over ten years old, giving it an incredibly rich, deep flavor.
The first dessert was, at its core, baked apples and cream. But the apples underwent multiple preparations—dried, confited, and grilled—resulting in a dish that was sweet, complex, and downright delicious. I loved the balance between simplicity and technical mastery.
Then came a pumpkin ice cream with pumpkin caramel—one of the highlights of the meal. The interplay between sweet and savory in desserts is nothing new, but here, it felt as if it had reached another level.
We finished with a sakura flan, its texture absolutely perfect—silky and delicate. Using sakura flowers as the base was an unconventional choice but a beautiful way for Tetsuro to infuse his personality and heritage into the final bite.
It should be obvious by now—I loved my meal at Txispa. But I won’t lie: I was nervous beforehand. Would it be an Etxebarri copy, or could Tetsuro carve out his own identity? The answer became clear almost immediately. This is an incredibly personal and original kitchen, where Basque products meet Japanese traditions, all filtered through the lens of Tetsuro’s experience and technique. His dedication to Japanese craftsmanship is further underscored by the fact that nearly the entire kitchen team is Japanese. I can only imagine this focus will deepen over time.
Txispa means “spark” in Basque, and that’s exactly what this restaurant has. How big the fire will grow remains to be seen, but there’s something reassuring about how brightly it burns so early in the journey.
Practical Information
Location: Axpe, Spain
Head Chef: Tetsuro Maeda
Menu: 10-course tasting menu – €275
Website: www.txispa.com
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