It had been just three months since my last visit to Kadeau for their summer menu. That visit impressed me deeply, and with preservation being their central philosophy, I was eager to see how a winter menu—built around this idea—would unfold. Would it live up to their strengths? I had to find out.
We began with a taste of summer: preserved tomatoes in a broth with pine and white currant oil. What a way to start—sweet, acidic, floral, and wonderfully complex. It set the tone for what was to come.
Next came one of my favorite Nordic ingredients: the mahogany clam from Norway. This remarkable shellfish, capable of living for over 150 years, carries an incredible depth of flavor from its long life in the cold Norwegian fjords. Here, it was paired with floral fig oil and sour cream for balance. The accompaniments highlighted the clam’s beautifully—each bite a tribute to its grandeur.
From Norway, we traveled to Iceland for sweet Icelandic shrimp, served raw with quince and wooden ants. The dish’s florality and acidity were stunning, offering a flavor profile that felt exotic and entirely unique.
The shellfish feast continued with king crab, paired with raw almonds and caviar. This dish, soft and delicate, was a beautiful contrast to the more powerful flavors of the earlier courses—a moment of subtle elegance.
Unfortunately, the next dish missed the mark for me. A baked oyster in a foam of cabbage and Havgus cheese felt unbalanced, with the cabbage and cheese overpowering the oyster’s delicate flavor.
But Kadeau quickly regained their stride with a raw shrimp dish, featuring mahogany clams, a hint of horseradish, and tangy buttermilk. The dish was packed with layered flavors and perfectly balanced.
A small tarte followed, topped with dried vegetables, ham, and rhubarb. It was fantastic—a rich interplay of sweet, tart, and savory flavors, with the ham’s fatty richness tying it all together. A spectacular bite that was every bit as beautiful as it was delicious.
The salsify dish that came next played with variations of the ingredient. While the idea was interesting, it lacked some of the pure deliciousness that the previous dishes had in addition to the techical elements.
Then came the iconic cold and warm smoked salmon. If you’ve been to Kadeau before, you know this dish is pure perfection. On this visit, it was paired with lavender-infused butter and roasted onion—a combination so delicious I could eat it every single day.
From here, we moved into the heart of Danish winter: deer, mushrooms, and duck. These classic ingredients were celebrated with Kadeau’s signature balance of simplicity and finesse.
First, a deer tartare, topped with a thin slice of mushroom. Simple yet flawless, the flavors were spot on. Next, a bowl of mushrooms—pickled, grilled, and served with herbs and berries. The balance of umami, acidity, and sweetness was like a Nordic forest distilled into a single dish.
The wild duck followed, served with various preserves. It was a more traditional dish, but when flavors are this delicious, simplicity is all you need.
Our first dessert was a nod to Danish Christmas traditions: a mulberry and elder dish with sloe berries, poured over a rich crème. It brought the familiar flavors of a classic Christmas rice pudding but with added depth and complexity. As a Dane, it felt perfectly timed just weeks before the holidays.
The meal ended with one of Kadeau’s signature playful desserts: mussel ice cream served with plums and conifers. Texturally exciting and flavorfully surprising, it was the perfect finish to a meal that consistently showcased creativity and balance.
Kadeau holds a special place for me. Sixteen years ago, it was one of the first Michelin-starred restaurants I visited. Back then, they amazed me with bold, unexpected flavors, and I returned within months. Now, 16 years later, I’ve found myself returning just as quickly. The restaurant has evolved, embracing preservation and Bornholm heritage as its guiding principles. This focus has given Kadeau a distinct identity in a world where too many restaurants are beginning to look the same.
The setting, too, adds to the magic—a cozy mix of Japanese Zen and Nordic hygge. The service is friendly, laid-back, yet effortlessly professional in true Nordic style.
And then there’s the wine pairing. Unlike many two-star restaurants that rely on big names and old vintages, Kadeau opts for smaller producers and even non-traditional wine regions, like Switzerland. The result is an adventurous, intriguing pairing that enhances the experience. I also can’t help but be tempted by their non-alcoholic pairing—complex, creative, and so flavorful that it might just be my choice next time.
And there will be a next time. Until then, Nicolaj, Pancho, and the rest of the team—thank you for another unforgettable experience.
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