Ikoyi is tucked away in an unassuming office building in central London. A part from a small sign on the door nothing here indicates that once you enter you will enter one of the best restaurants in the World
The restaurant has a humble but stunning design. Understated luxury is probably the best description. Designed by Studio David Vilstrup who also did the interior design for Noma the reference to Nordic simplicity and cosines are well placed. The latter underscored by a cosy lighting which makes the evening just a bit more romantic.
The menu would start with a rapid fire round of snacks. The first is a modern classic in the form of a tuna tartare. However this was anything but classic. First of all the tuna was British and it was kept in one large piece which gave a nice texture. Finger limes would provide a nice balance to the fatty and slightly cold smoked tuna. A bite that set the tone of the evening of extraordinary culinary artistry.
Blown away also applies for the next snack which was a beautiful rose made from river trout and yellow beats. Grilled onions and a bit of wasabi provided the dish with incredible balance. The dish may look simple but it was anything but simple which explains why it had such a rich, complex and delicious flavor profile.
Lobster would be paired with caviar and cacao. Another incredible snack and I loved that the caviar was hid away as the purpose of it was to support the lobster and not the other way around.
The ceramics that they use at Ikoyi was impressive with a clear Japanese influence. However the next one gave me associations to a Zebra with its black stripes. A perfect match to the next bite of squid and button mushrooms. A dish of nice soft umami flavors.
I am a bitg fan of sweet elements in savory dishes. The next dish was to me a perfect example of why they work so well. A sweet and floral custard based on saffron was served together with a beetroot glaze and generous amounts of caviar and razor clams. A unique flavor combination that I absolutely loved.
The dishes would now get bigger but also even more personal. A crispy red mullet was served together with a lovely porcini, an almond milk sauce, kafir lime and grilled chili. A natural refreshing and very delicious dish. One that came wonderfully unexpected.
Ikoyi manages to combine flavors like no one. Sweetbread and lobster was the base of the next dish. This is definently the first time I ever had anything like that, but the combination really worked. Again the level of details that went into this preparation was incredible. The sweetbread was first brined in milk, smoked over hay, grilled and finished off with a glacé of chicken wing reduction. An incredible dish.
The turbot arrived with cabbage crowned by raspberry gel. Smokey. Sweet. A combination as unexpected as delightful.
We would finish the savory section with grilled guinea fowl and a healthy portion of clay pot rice with lots of saffron rice and mushrooms. A bit of smoke was naturally added to the rice right before being served both for flavor and presentation. A small extra touch to make Ikoy stand out even more.
We would start our desserts with a beautiful and delicious dessert of red long pepper with lots of different spices and a vanilla cream. The dish didn’t just delight my palette but it transported me to Christmas as a child eating a similar danish dessert.
An unassuming dessert in the form of a classic foam and crispy bits. When I say unassuming it’s because many desserts have these components but few have the deep complex flavors like this one of that was both sweet, salty and umami rich. The latter from shiitake mushrooms which is something you don’t see every day, but then again Ikoyi is not your ordinary gourmet restaurant.
Two petit fours would finish our meal at Ikoyi. One a small chocolate cake topped with white truffles and peach tarts. A rich and exceptional snack to finish. A fitting way to end a meal that end to end had been exceptional. A word I seldom use of restaurants but Ikoy was just that. From start to finish it had surprised and amazed me. Surprised because their flavor combinations are unique and the execution and use of products were absolutely amazing.
The understated design and lowered lighting put full focus on the food while providing an intimate atmosphere making it perfect for a romantic evening. The elegant design was also a nice contrast to the colorful and unexpected food which in turn made it stand out even more.
From the moment we stepped through the doors at Ikoyi we felt at home and welcome. Unassuming, friendly and competent would be the best description of the service. This combined with a delicious pairing of both wine and sake made this an evening to remember. Despite already being placed as number 42 on World 50 Best I feel that there is much more to come for Ikoyi.
Practical information
Location: London, England
Head Chef: Jeremy Chan
Menu: 10 course tasting menu $400
Website: Ikoyi — 180 Strand, London
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