Textur, one of Copenhagen’s latest openings of 2024, enters the scene with an ambition to capture a Michelin star. Following closely on the heels of Aure—another establishment that achieved this coveted accolade within just four months—it will be intriguing to see if Textur can mirror that success.
Copenhagen is best known for its innovation in Nordic cuisine, which often defines the local restaurant landscape. Textur, however, breaks away by embracing classic French flavors, offering a refreshing difference for once.
Located in a cozy basement in central Copenhagen, the restaurant’s entrance may require a few steps down, but once inside, that subterranean feel fades. The dining room, dressed in crisp white tablecloths, radiates warmth and elegance, setting the tone for a refined dining experience.
Our tasting began with a warm bun where the use of active charcoal, giving it a satisfying crunch. Inside, a rich truffle cream added depth, contrasting beautifully with the softer, subtler flavors of Nordic cuisine.
Next was a luxurious tuna belly (toro) croustade, crowned with a generous amount of Rossini caviar. A hint of lovage added an earthy dimension, creating an indulgent and luxurious bite. A nice snack that brought inner conflict between my stomach that loved the delicious flavors and my inner critic who thought the croustade was too thick.
One of the more intriguing presentations was a mushroom, almost resembling an omelet, topped with foie gras. While the taste didn’t stand out as much as other dishes, the visual presentation was charming.
As a child hearing about French gourmet good frog legs was mentioned again and again. First of all I couldn’t help but wonder why anybody would want to eat the leg of such a slimy creature. As an adult I have eaten things much weirder but this still might have been one of the first time eating it. Weirdly enough a lot of those things that sound weird to eat have rather simple flavors and frog legs aren’t that different which I found to be similar to duck. Here it was deep fried to a perfect crisp and topped with a bit of thyme as the chef is from the south of France.
A more modern classic followed—the Japanese chawanmushi, an egg custard infused here with succulent pieces of king crab. A glossy, sweet crab glaze and caviar heightened the dish’s richness, with finger lime adding just a touch of acidity to balance each bite.
The crab continued its appearance in a Danish-style “æbleskive,” topped again with caviar. Although delicious, I would have appreciated a cream element to add juiciness to a bun that was just to the dry side.
Foie gras was the highlight of our next dish, cooked in Calvados and paired with a variety of citrus gels. The acidity balanced the richness impeccably, making this dish a clear favorite of the evening.
Another standout was a dish combining classic flavors: scallop, Piemonte hazelnuts, and a deeply caramelized onion purée. It wasn’t the most photogenic plate, but the flavor was exceptional, putting a smile on my face with each bite.
Lavender, a distinctive scent from the South of France, appeared in a fragrant consommé with crispy onions and a succulent langoustine tail. While the flavors were outstanding, I’d personally suggest creating the crispy elements without the use of molds. The flavor is strong enough to stand on its own without the theatrics.
For the final savory course, a pan-fried turbot paired with fig marmalade and fig leaf oil impressed with its perfectly balanced flavors. The fig’s sweet, earthy notes elevated the fish beautifully, making additional garnishes like microgreens feel unnecessary.
Dessert featured a Maya chocolate tart topped with Oscietra caviar—a concept that immediately recalled Bruno Verjus’s version. However, Textur’s addition of a blueberry crème gave it a unique twist, making it feel like a distinct creation.
Textur brings a refined, French-focused perspective to Copenhagen’s dining scene, weaving in Danish touches without overshadowing its core identity. While it’s always challenging for a new restaurant to achieve absolute polish right from the start, Textur’s commitment to quality ingredients and classic flavors shines through. Michelin star or not, this is a restaurant worth visiting for anyone seeking an elegant French dining experience.
Practical information
Location: Copenhagen
Head chef: Karin Khouani
Menu: $280 10 course tasting menu
Website: http://www.texturerestaurant.com/
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