Over the past decade, Copenhagen’s dining scene has evolved into something remarkably diverse. Of course, we’ve always had exceptional fine dining from Nordic cuisine and mouthwatering pastries from our top-notch bakeries for a while. And sure, you can find some amazing pizza and burger spots. But what Ark brings to the table is something refreshingly new: a true attempt at vegan gourmet. It’s a bold statement in a city that’s not exactly short on culinary innovation but still lacking gourmet plant based dining.
One evening, Ark teamed up with the Belgian Michelin-starred vegan restaurant, Humus x Hortense (HxH), for a special collaboration, and it was clear from the get-go that this was going to be an experience that pushed boundaries in plant-based dining.
We kicked off the evening with a glass of bio-organic champagne and an elegant start to a series of snacks from both restaurants. Picture this: a crispy corn chip with koji, fried potato with a dash of parmesan, and a fennel mousse balanced by the tang of pickled rhubarb. The variety of textures and flavors here was playful, a promising sign of things to come.
September in Denmark is that sweet spot where summer ingredients meet the more intense, hearty fare of autumn. This blend was captured beautifully in a dish featuring both fresh tomatoes and cabbage, served with a rich tomato consommé. It was a lovely late-summer plate, layered with complexity — exactly what you’d hope for from chefs who truly understand the seasons.
Collaborative dinners can sometimes feel a bit disjointed — more of a back-and-forth between chefs than a real partnership. But this night had its standout moments of true collaboration. The saffron broth, for instance, was the highlight for me. It tied the dish together, showing how two culinary perspectives can blend into something greater than the sum of their parts.
Then came the bread course. Two separate bread servings, each with its own sauce, allowed for a direct comparison between the chefs’ styles. Ark’s mushroom-based sauce reflected their usual flair for earthy, umami-rich flavors, while HxH brought a vibrant beetroot “ketchup” to the table. I was however stuck between the intellectual feeling that it was a nice way of doing a a direct comparison and a desire for variation. At the end the latter feeling won.
The feeling of a desire for variation was intensified with the next two dish. Both restaurants opted for mushroom dishes — Ark served up grilled lion’s mane mushroom, while HxH went for a more delicate chawanmushi. A dish naturally created without the egg that is usually the heart and soul of the dish. While both were delicious in their own right, it would have been nice to see a bit more variety here. Especially considering that they previously had two bread courses.
If there’s one place I often feel fine dining falls short, it’s dessert. But not this time. The final courses were both technical spot on and pure indulgence. Ark’s rose coffee and pine dessert was a surprising mix of flavors — earthy and aromatic, yet sweet in just the right way. Meanwhile, HxH played it a bit safer with raspberries, basil, and red bell pepper, but the smoky, almost spicy kick from the peppers was an unexpected twist that worked beautifully.
Reflecting on the night, it’s clear that plant-based dining is not just a trend but a significant shift in the way we think about food. As someone who eats mostly vegetarian at home, I find it inspiring to see chefs taking vegetables and elevating them to the star of the show. One common question I often hear is whether plant-based dishes can truly deliver that deep, savory umami that meat so easily provides. The answer is a resounding yes. From mushrooms to fermentations, the possibilities are endless.
But variety is key, and that’s where I think the collaboration missed an opportunity. With two bread courses and two mushroom mains, it felt like a little more imagination could have taken the meal to an even higher level like they showed they had with their dish developed together.
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